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Mandjamin goes abroad http://mandjamin.de Zusammen auf der Sonnenseite des Lebens Mon, 14 May 2018 20:31:09 +0000 de-DE hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.17 https://i1.wp.com/mandjamin.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/cropped-IMG_2689.jpg?fit=32%2C32 Mandjamin goes abroad http://mandjamin.de 32 32 125059053 TRAVEL HOME http://mandjamin.de/travel-home/ http://mandjamin.de/travel-home/#respond Mon, 14 May 2018 20:01:43 +0000 http://mandjamin.de/?p=12113 Genau 100 Tage liegt unsere Heimkehr nach Berlin nun zurück. Inzwischen geht Mandy schon wieder fleißig arbeiten, Ben war mit seinem Kumpel Greg kurz nochmal in Äthiopien und wir beide haben uns wieder gut zu Hause eingelebt. Heute vor 101 Tagen befanden wir uns in einem merkwürdigen Schwebezustand. Unsere Reise war am Ende doch zu Hause waren wir noch nicht. 350 Tage des Reisens durch 13 Länder lagen hinter uns. Es war ein Jahr so gespickt mit Höhepunkten, dass es eigentlich für fünf reichen würde. Nach so langer Zeit, in der ein Highlight das nächste jagte, war die Festplatte einfach voll. Wir wussten es war Zeit, nach Hause zu fahren. Doch das war auch gleichbedeutend mit dem Ende des Jahres, in dem wir jeden Tag unseren Traum gelebt hatten. Es war das Ende eines unglaublich geilen Jahres, dass wir jeden Tag Seite an Seite gemeinsam genossen. Bei diesem Gedanken hatten wir beide einen Kloß im Hals. Gleichzeitig fragten wir uns, wie es wohl sein würde, nach Hause zu kommen, vom Sommer in den Winter, in die eigenen vier Wände, nachdem man ein Jahr lang in Hotelzimmern, Strandhütten, Zelten und Autos gewohnt hatte. Würde es uns gelingen, uns im Berliner Alltag wieder einzuleben? Nach so langer Abwesenheit fühlte sich der Flug zurück in die doch eigentlich vertraute Heimat an wie ein Reise ins Ungewisse. Aber natürlich war da auch jede Menge Vorfreude auf so vieles, was da zu Hause auf uns wartete. Allem voran freuten wir uns natürlich am meisten auf unsere Liebsten, auf Familie und Freunde, aber auch auf das eigene Bett oder die Couch, darauf mal wieder frische Klamotten aus unserem Kleiderschrank zu nehmen, auf den bevorstehenden Sommer in Berlin oder auch einfach auf einen Döner. Die Liste war auf jeden Fall lang und vielfältig. All diese Erinnerungen, Aussichten und Fragen waren die Zutaten, die einen Gefühlscocktail ergaben, dessen Geschmack irgendwo zwischen melancholischer Sentimentalität und freudiger Erwartung lag. Unsere Gefühlswelt eine Transitzone. Das passte, denn die nächsten knapp 24 Stunden verbrachten wir hauptsächlich auf Flughäfen und im internationalen Luftraum. Von Busuanga ging es über Manila und Istanbul zurück nach Berlin, wo wir am Vormittag des 4. Februar endlich wieder auf deutschem Boden standen. Die Liebsten ließen zu unserer großen Freude dann auch nicht lange auf sich warten und überraschten uns als Willkommenskomitee direkt am Flughafen. Vielen Dank nochmal für den herrlichen Empfang und das tolle „Welcome back“. Beim betreten der Wohnung fühlte es sich dann fast so an, als wäre man nur mal eben übers Wochenende weggefahren. So weit entfernt war vieles aus der Heimat auf der Reise – sowohl räumlich als auch mental. Und doch, zu Hause angekommen, war alles direkt wieder so vertraut. Einige vertraute Gesichter kamen dann sogar am selben Abend noch mit Spätibier und einem Präsentkorb unterm Arm auf ein kleines Stelldichein vorbei. Bei so einem großartigen Empfang hatte die fiese Heimkehrdepression nicht den Hauch einer Chance. Danke Leute. Berlin hatte uns wieder.

Es war ein außergewöhnliches Jahr, etwas ganz besonderes und für uns definitiv etwas, dass uns für immer begleiten wird. „Genießt es. Sowas macht man nur einmal im Leben.“ Diesen Satz hörten wir immer mal wieder im letzten Jahr. Wir haben es in vollen Zügen genossen und wir sind dankbar, dass wir die Möglichkeit hatten, so etwas unvergessliches zu erleben. Aber wer sagt eigentlich, dass man sowas nur einmal im Leben machen kann? In diesem Sinne: TRAVEL ON!

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PHILIPPINEN http://mandjamin.de/philippinen/ http://mandjamin.de/philippinen/#respond Sat, 12 May 2018 08:54:03 +0000 http://mandjamin.de/?p=12094 Am 10. Januar ging es von Taipeh auf die Philippinen. Die Philippinen sind der fünftgrößte Inselstaat der Welt. Das im westlichen Pazifik gelegene Archipel besteht aus unglaublichen 7.641 Inseln. Während unserer Planungssitzungen im verregneten Taipeh waren wir zunächst regelrecht erschlagen von diesem Überangebot an möglichen Zielen. Wo sollten wir anfangen und wie sollte es von dort aus weitergehen? Erschwerend kam hinzu, dass der Inselstaat kurz vor dem Jahreswechsel von einem verheerendem Tropensturm getroffen wurde, der vor allem im Süden und im Südwesten schwere Verwüstungen angerichtet und hunderte Menschenleben gefordert hatte. Zu unserer persönlichen Unentschlossenheit gesellte sich also auch noch eine gewisse Unsicherheit hinsichtlich der Situation im Land. Nach stundenlangem Googeln waren wir noch ratloser als zuvor. Es gab einfach sooooo viele Optionen. Nach mehrstündiger Recherche fassten wir uns endlich ein Herz und buchten eine Unterkunft mitten in den Reisterrassen von Banaue (UNSECO-Weltkulturerbe, 400 km nördlich von Manila), nur um diese nur zwei Stunden später wieder zu stornieren. Sowohl Anreise als auch Wettervorhersage stellten sich im Nachhinein als suboptimal heraus. Nicht umsonst checkt man sowas ja auch eigentlich vor der Buchung. 😉 Nach einem Tag vergeblicher Planung standen wir nach wie vor mit leeren Händen da. Regen in Taipeh, Regen auf den Philippinen und kein Plan wie es weitergehen sollte. Wir brauchten erstmal ein Bier und das – man glaubt es kaum – sollte auch die Lösung unseres Problems sein. Das kühle Blonde an der Hostelbar tranken wir nämlich mit zwei ebenfalls bierdurstigen Dänen. Als wir ihnen unser Philippinen-Dilemma darlegten, vermochten es die beiden sofort, Abhilfe zu schaffen. Ihrerseits auch schon etwas herum gekommen, empfahlen sie uns die Gegend rund um die Provinzhauptstadt Dumaguete im Süden der Insel Negros und machten uns diese so schmackhaft, dass wir noch am selben Abend buchten. Die Entscheidung war gefallen. Der schwerste Teil war geschafft. Vor Ort würde sich dann schon zeigen, wie es weitergehen würde. Am 10. Januar flogen wir via Manila nach Dumaguete.

Die Universitätsstadt Dumaguete bot abgesehen von einigen netten Ausgehmöglichkeiten und unserem stylischen Hostel wenig spektakuläres. Wie die Jungs gesagt hatten, entpuppte sich der Ort allerdings tatsächlich als perfekter Ausgangspunkt für eine ganze Reihe cooler Ziele, die wir in den kommenden Tagen ansteuerten.

Rizal Boulevard in Dumaguete
Typische bunt bemalte Trycycles
Unser Hostel

Als erstes Stand eine Verabredung mit einem schwimmenden Riesen an, der uns im vergangenen Jahr schon zweimal versetzt hatte. In Oslob wollten wir unsere Pechsträhne beenden und endlich mit einem Walhai schwimmen. Und tatsächlich, im dritten Anlauf hatten wir Glück. Wobei von Glück zu sprechen in diesem Fall nicht ganz zutreffend ist, da die Riesenfische hier wenige hundert Meter vom Strand entfernt angefüttert werden und dadurch jeden Morgen verlässliche Gäste in der Bucht sind. Selbstverständlich zieht das die Massen an. Busladungen Schaulustiger werden allmorgendlich nach Oslob gekarrt. Darunter vor allem Asiaten, die des Schwimmens nicht mächtig sind, sich dadurch aber trotzdem nicht abhalten lassen, mit ihrer Schwimmweste wie ein Korken hilflos im Wasser zu treiben. So war die Begegnung mit dem größten Fisch der Welt weit entfernt von einem ruhigen Naturerlebnis. Vielmehr hatte die Sache etwas von einem Sea World-Freizeitpark. So hatten wir uns das nicht vorgestellt. Wir wären dem Walhai lieber auf einer unserer Touren an der australischen Westküste mit etwas natürlicheren Rahmenbedingungen begegnet. Die Momente, in denen man dann aber schließlich Auge in Auge mit dem Zehn-Meter-Koloss schwamm, waren trotzdem der Wahnsinn.

Da unten warten schon die Walhaie
Auge in Auge mit dem Koloss
Walhai-Selfie
Faszinierend

Auch am nächsten Tag wurde es tierisch. Diesmal ging es nach Apo Island. Die Unterwasserwelt rund um das kleine Eiland ist ein beliebtes Tauchrevier und Weidegrund unzähliger grüner Meeresschildkröten. Bei bestem Wetter verbrachten wir einen ganzen Tag auf dem Boot. Noch bevor wir zum ersten Mal ins Wasser sprangen, hatten wir bereits eine Schildkröte gesichtet, die sich an der Wasseroberfläche in der Sonne aalte. Ein verheißungsvoller Start und es wurde noch besser. Mit Eintauchen ins Meer eröffnete sich uns eine unglaubliche Unterwasserwelt: kunterbunte, völlig intakte Korallengärten, tropische Fische, Seeschlangen und natürlich Schildkröten. Mehr als einmal hatten wir an diesem Tag die Gelegenheit, den freundlichen Panzertieren ganz nahe zu kommen und diese zu beobachten. Unglaublich toll. Aber seht einfach selbst.

Ein Tag auf See bei bestem Wetter
Bereit fürs Wasser
Mandy taucht ab
Korallen
Deep Blue Sea
Mandy schwimmt mit einer Schildkröte
Schildkröte
Ganz nah dran
Wahnsinn

Nur eine eineinhalbstündige Fährfahrt von Dumaguete entfernt, liegt Siquijor Island. Eine echte Trauminsel, die ohne die ganz, ganz großen Attraktionen auskommt und deshalb von verhältnismäßig wenig Touristen besucht wird. Unser Glück, denn wir wollten uns hier nach drei Tagen Stadtgewimmel in Dumaguete entspannen und das taten wir dann auch. Eingebucht hatten wir uns in einem luxuriösen Zeltlager direkt am Strand, eine Mischung aus Glamour und Camping, was auf Siquijor dann Glamping heißt.

Glamour + Camping = Glamping
Unser Zelt
Herein spaziert
Strandfrühstück

Etwas ernüchternd war, dass das Wetter nicht ganz so mitspielte, so dass wir öfter als gewünscht im Zelt oder im Café um die Ecke Unterschlupf suchen mussten. Das war wirklich schade, denn bei unseren Motorrollertouren, die wir in den trockenen Tagesabschnitten unternahmen, verliebten wir uns in diese kleine verträumte Insel, auf der es doch allerhand zu erkunden gab. Wir entdeckten wunderschöne Wasserfälle, an denen man ins Wasser springen, schwingen und rutschen konnte. Unter einem Jahrhunderte alten Banyan-Baum ließen wir uns von kleineren und größeren Fischen an den Füßen knabbern und kitzeln. Am Salagdoong Beach, dem beliebtesten der vielen wunderschönen Strände der Insel, blickten wir vom 15-Meter-Sprungturm durch das glasklare hellblaue Wasser bis auf den Meeresgrund. Bei Ebbe konnten wir von unserem Strand aus die Fischer bei der Seeigelernte beobachten und am Abend gab es eine spektakuläre Aufführung am Himmel.

Rock ’n‘ Roll
Cambugahay Falls
Sprung ins Blaue
Aber bald schon mutiger
Einige größere Kaliber waren auch dabei
Salagdoong Beach
Bereit für den Absprung
Whoop whoop
Seeigelernte
Abendstimmung an unserem Hausstrand

Siquijor war einfach wunderschön und zu gern wären wir noch länger geblieben. Nach drei Tagen ging es mit der Fähre allerdings wieder zurück nach Dumaguete und von dort aus mit dem Local Bus 40 Kilometer weiter südlich in ein kleines abgelegenes Strandresort namens Kookoo’s Nest, zu deutsch: Kuckucksnest. Auch hier hieß es wieder Entspannung pur. Fernab von jedwedem Trubel verbrachten wir die Tage damit, zwischen Meer und der nächstgelegenen Hängematte hin und her zu pendeln.

Mit dem Local Bus ins Strandparadies
Arschbombe
Restaurant mit Meerblick
Unter Gleichgesinnten
Abendstimmung in unserem Nest
Die Göttin der Abendröte

Nach Tagen der Entspannung waren wir wieder bereit für etwas Action. Aus diesem Grund verliessen wir das Kuckucksnest, verabschiedeten uns von Negros und setzten auf die Nachbarinsel Cebu über, in deren gleichnamiger Provinzhauptstadt alljährlich am dritten Wochenende im Januar das Sinulog-Festival stattfindet. Es ist eines der größten religiösen und kulturellen Feste auf den Philippinen und jedes Jahr strömen Millionen Gläubige und Schaulustige nach Cebu, um den Feierlichkeiten beizuwohnen. Im Rahmen des Festivals wird das Kind Jesu in der Gestalt von Santo Nino, das heilige Kind von Cebu, geehrt. Neben christlichen Prozessionen und Messen steht vor allem die große Straßenparade, mit den kostümierten Tanz- und Musikgruppen, im Mittelpunkt der Feierlichkeiten. Auch für uns war der Umzug ganz klar das Highlight und wir fühlten uns durch die bunten und fröhlichen Menschen an den Karneval der Kulturen in Berlin erinnert.

Bei bester Laune
Mandy und die Crew 🙂
Unser Liebling 😀
Jede Gruppe wurde von ihrer Sinulog-Prinzessin angeführt
Tanzende Kerzen
Freundliche Gesichter
Prinzessin mit Santo Nino-Statue
Tolle Kostüme
Sinulog-Prinzessin und die Königin
Schwungvoll
Ready to go

Nach zweitägigem Party-Zwischenstopp in Cebu ging es für uns per Flieger weiter nach Palawan. Die im Westen der Philippinen gelegene Provinz Palawan, zu der auch die gleichnamige Insel gehört, gilt vielen als die schönste Region im ganzen Land. Nach einem nächtlichen Zwischenstopp in der Provinzhauptstadt Puerto Princesa ging es für uns weiter gen Norden in das Love & Peace Dschungelresort. Mit Love & Peace war es allerdings schnell vorbei als wir den Zustand der Anlage sahen und dem unfreundlichen Personal begegneten. Was im Internet als kleine Wohlfühloase direkt am Fluss verkauft wurde, war in Wirklichkeit eine heruntergekommene und lieblose Absteige. Wir trösteten uns damit, dass es mit nur zwei Übernachtungen glücklicherweise ein recht kurzes Intermezzo an diesem Ort werden sollte. So richtig wohl fühlten wir uns dort zwar nicht, aber wir versuchten, das Beste draus zu machen, und erkundeten die dann doch sehr schöne Umgebung zu Wasser und zu Fuß.

Ab in den Busch
Angekommen im Dschungel
Immer Fluss aufwärts
Familienausflug
Was guckst du?
Das Dorf
Was Süßes für die Kleinen
Am Späti 😉
Air Schlöti

Nach zwei Tagen hieß es zum Glück, „Bloß schnell weg hier und weiter nach Port Barton.“ Das kleine Fischerdorf, das inzwischen immer mehr Touristen anzieht, ist ausschliesslich über eine dreizig Kilometer lange Buckelpiste zu erreichen. Neunzig Minuten dauert die Holperfahrt, die sich aber definitiv lohnt. Port Barton ist ein verschlafenes Örtchen ohne feste Straßen und liegt in einer wunderschönen Bucht, mit einem herrlichen palmengesäumten Strand. Kein Wunder, dass sich einige Aussteiger vor etwa dreizig Jahren auf Anhieb in diesen Ort verliebten. Port Barton ist einfach und in dieser Einfachheit liegt auch die Faszination. In der Nacht gibt es keinen Strom, das Internet ist so langsam, dass es praktisch nicht zu gebrauchen ist und warmes Wasser gibt es nur gelegentlich. Trotzdem oder gerade deshalb war Port Barton für uns einer der schönsten Orte, die wir auf den Philippinen besuchten. Wir wollten gar nicht mehr weg. Dazu trug sicherlich auch eine der lässigsten Unterkünfte bei, die wir in einem Jahr Reisen bewohnten: ein Baumhaus direkt am Strand. Cooler geht es einfach nicht und wir genossen die neidischen Blicke der Strandspaziergänger, die fünf Meter unter unserem Balkon vorüberzogen. ;-P

Angekommen in Port Barton
Unser Baumhaus am Meer
Entspannter geht es kaum
Prösterchen
Strandspaziergang
Es ist sooooo schön hier!!!

In Port Barton hätten wir locker noch einen ganzen Monat zubringen können, doch in Wirklichkeit brach die letzte Woche vor unserem Heimflug nach Berlin an. Ein Jahr des Reisen neigte sich nun wirklich dem Ende entgegen. Ein Ort wie Port Barton machte es nicht gerade leichter, dies zu akzeptieren. Von Port Barton ging es zunächst wieder zurück über die Buckelpiste und anschließend weiter Richtung Norden nach El Nido. Dort bestiegen wir ein Schiff, mit dem wir von einer Insel zur nächsten hüpfend in den kommenden drei Tagen bis nach Coron Town auf Busuanga fahren wollten. Die Inselwelt von Nordpalawan ist ein Ort von unglaublicher Schönheit. Es war, als würden wir durch die Südsee schippern. Die Sonne strahlte, das Wasser war türkis-blau und das Bier war kühl. Wir hatten eine großartige Zeit. Die Strände an denen wir anlegten, waren wie aus dem Bilderbuch.

El Nido
Traumhaft schön
Mittagspause
Nächster Halt: Fischerdorf
Azuro
Die Dorfkids und Ben 😀
Unser Nachlager
Unsere Unterkunft
<3
Die „Besatzung“

Einziger Wermutstropfen war, dass wir uns am zweiten Abend eine Lebensmittelvergiftung einfingen und die ganze Nacht auf den Beinen waren. Ebenso wie damals auf Koh Rong hieß es also mal wieder, alles raus, was keine Miete zahlt, und das ohne Strom und fließend Wasser. Darin hatten wir inzwischen ja Übung. So gingen wir den dritten Tag relativ entkräftet an, wollten uns den Spaß an der Tour von der kurzzeitigen nächtlichen Unpässlichkeit jedoch nicht nehmen lassen. Am Ende des Tages waren wir dann aber doch froh, vom Schiff runter zu kommen und fielen nach einer ebenso langwierigen wie schwierigen Hotelsuche in Coron Town völlig erschöpft ins Bett. Als wir am nächsten Tag erwachten, fühlten wir uns schon wieder deutlich besser. Uns blieben noch drei volle Tage auf Busuanga und wir hatten beschlossen, diese letzten Tage vor unserem Heimflug in einer abgeschiedenen Herberge zwei Stunden westlich von Coron Town zu verbringen. Bevor wir uns am Mittag mit dem Local Bus auf den Weg machten, stiegen wir noch auf den Mount Tapyas, um einen Blick auf die Stadt und die ihr vorgelagerte Insel Coron zu erhaschen.

Coron Town
Netter Ausblick
Coron Town

Dann ging es zum Busbahnhof, von wo aus wir uns zu unserer vermeintlich finalen Unterkunft aufmachten. Bei AirBnB hatten wir die Sanctuaria Treehouses entdeckt und beschlossen, das zweite Mal innerhalb kürzester Zeit ein Baumhaus zu beziehen. In der Theorie ein guter Plan, hätte die ebenso unfreundliche wie gleichgültige Hotel Managerin unsere Buchung nicht verschlampt. Trotz Buchungsbestätigung hatte man unser Baumhaus anderweitig vergeben. Für die erste Nacht konnten wir noch in eine der so genannten Hobbit-Höhlen ausweichen. Für die beiden darauffolgenden Nächte wollte man uns dann allerdings in einem fensterlosen Strohtipi unterbringen. Wir lehnten ab und waren erstmal bedient. So hatten wir uns unsere letzten Tage nicht vorgestellt. Um nach Coron Town zurückzufahren war es inzwischen zu spät. Also beschlossen wir, die Nacht in der Hobbit-Höhle zu verbringen und am nächsten Tag zumindest noch Kajaken zu gehen, damit die lange Busfahrt hier raus nicht ganz umsonst war. Die Umgebung war wirklich herrlich. Die Anlage lag an einem Hang in mitten von dichtem Grün. Von der Terrasse hatte man einen atemberaubenden Blick auf die Bucht am Fuße des Hügels, die wir am nächsten Tag, mit dem Paddel in der Hand, erkundeten.

Die Abendsonne vor der Hobbit-Höhle genießen
Wow
Man vs. Nature 😛
Paradisische Bauruine
Verlassener Strand
Lecker Kokoswasser
Ab durch die Mangroven
Spieglein, Spieglein…

Nach dem Paddeln ging es diesmal per Tuk Tuk zurück nach Coron Town, wo wir nun also doch unsere letzten zwei Nächte verbringen sollten. Was für ein hin und her. Glück im Unglück war, dass wir durch unsere vorzeitige Rückkehr nach Coron Town noch die Möglichkeit hatten, am letzten Tag eine Tagestour nach Coron Island zu machen. Andere Traveler hatten stets von der Insel geschwärmt und viele hielten sie für das schönste, was sie auf den Philippinen gesehen hätten. Na das klang doch gut. Also ging es noch einmal aufs Schiff und mal wieder waren wir baff, angesichts der unglaublichen Schönheit der philippinischen Insel- und Wasserwelt. Glasklares Wasser, auf dem Boote so aussehen als würden sie schweben, und über allem thronen die imposanten Steilhänge des Karstgebirges, das sich quasi über die gesamte Insel erstreckt. Ein magischer Ort. Aber seht am besten einfach selbst.

Schwimmender Händler
Aquaman
Spritzig
Unglaubliche Farben
Twin Lagoon
Twin Lagoon
Einfahrt in die Coron Bucht
Coron Bucht
Kayangan Lake
Kayangan Lake
Auf dem Sonnendeck

Während wir bei dreißig Grad und Sonne vorn auf dem Bug lagen, fiel es uns schwer, zu realisieren, dass am nächsten Tag tatsächlich unsere Heimreise in den deutschen Winter bevorstand. Ein Jahr war nun rum und am Ende des Tages auf dem Weg zurück in den Hafen kam Wehmut auf. Wir freuten uns auf zu Hause, auf die Familie und Freunde, auf Berlin und auf dem Komfort einer eigenen Wohnung. Unannehmlichkeit wie Lebensmittelvergiftungen, stundenlang ein Hotel zu suchen oder verbummelte Reservierungen würden wir bestimmt nicht vermissen. Und doch war es verrückt, dass dieser Tag, ein Tag wie so viele im zurückliegenden Jahr, das Ende dieser unglaublichen Reise markieren sollte. An diesem letzten Abend trafen wir sogar noch einige Leute, mit denen wir wenige Tage zuvor die Insel-Hopping-Tour gemacht hatten. Gemeinsam stießen wir an, auf eine unvergessliche Zeit auf den Philippinen und auf ein unvergessliches Jahr. „Travel on“ bedeutete für uns nun erst einmal „Travel home“.

Auf ein unvergessliches Jahr
Auf die Philippinen

Hier geht’s zur vollständigen Fotogalerie.

P.S. Für ein besseres Verständnis unserer Route von Insel zu Insel haben wir euch hier noch eine Kleinigkeit gebastelt.

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TAIWAN http://mandjamin.de/taiwan/ http://mandjamin.de/taiwan/#respond Mon, 23 Apr 2018 20:24:39 +0000 http://mandjamin.de/?p=11353 Taiwan war ein echtes Überraschungsland auf unserer Reiseroute. Mit Malaysia, Laos, Thailand, Kambodscha und Vietnam hatten wir die Südostasiatischen Länder abgehakt, die wir uns anfänglich vorgenommen hatten. Alles was jetzt noch kommen sollte, war eine Zugabe. Mitte Dezember, etwa zur Halbzeit unserer Vietnamreise, stellte sich für uns die Frage, wo wir ins neue Jahr hineinfeiern wollten. Taiwan zu besuchen, spukte uns schon einige Wochen als fixe Idee durch den Kopf. Und Silvester in Taipeh… na das wäre doch was. Dumm nur, dass wir anscheinend nicht die einzigen waren, die so dachten. Noch dümmer, dass es nur noch zwei Wochen bis zum 31.12. waren. Vor allem die günstigen Unterkünfte waren längst ausgebucht und so starteten die Zimmer auf der Restrampe bei etwa 300 Euro die Nacht. Da stöhnt das schmale Traveller-Budget. Es hieß also umdisponieren. Die Lösung hieß Kaohsiung. „Kaoh-was“, werden die meisten von euch nun sicherlich sagen und so ging es auch uns. Zu diesem Zeitpunkt wussten wir lediglich, dass Flüge von Hanoi nach Kaohsiung relativ günstig zu haben sind. Also bemühten wir Wikipedia und das las sich dann so: „Kaohsiung ist die zweitgrößte Stadt Taiwans. […] Kaohsiung befindet sich im Südwesten der Insel Taiwan am Südchinesischen Meer und verfügt über den wichtigsten Hafen des Landes. Hier wird der größte Teil der taiwanischen Ölimporte abgewickelt, die von der umliegenden Industrie verarbeitet werden.“ Naja. Das klang nun nicht gerade sexy, aber für eine kleine Silvesterfeierei und als Ausgangspunkt für unseren Taiwan-Trip sollte es doch wohl reichen. Und so ging es am Morgen des 31. Dezember ab nach Taiwan. Hinsichtlich Kaohsiung stellten wir uns zur Sicherheit erstmal auf eine relativ unansehnliche Industriestadt ein. Zu unserer großen Überraschung wurden wir während unseres zweitägigen Aufenthalts jedoch eines Besseren belehrt. Unser Hotel lag mitten im Pier 2 Art Centre. Das ehemals unansehnliche Hafenviertel ist inzwischen ein riesiges Kunst- und Kulturzentrum mit Galerien, Ateliers, ausgefallenen Shops, Restaurants und Cafés. Wir mischten uns unter die zahlreichen einheimischen Sonntagsausflügler und schlenderten zwischen den alten Lagerhallen umher. Nur eine Fährfahrt vom Art District entfernt, liegt die Halbinsel Cijin, historisch gesehen die Keimzelle des späteren Kaohsiung. An diversen Street-Food-Ständen hatten wir dort erstmals die Gelegenheit, uns mit der Taiwanesischen Küche vertraut zu machen. Unter anderem gab es gegrillten Tintenfisch, eine Taiwanesische Spezialität und super lecker. Ein weiterer sehr schöner Ort in Kaohsiung war der Lotussee mit seinen zahlreichen kunterbunten und teilweise recht kitschigen Tempeln und Pagoden.

Pier 2 Art Centre
Street Style
Poser
Blick über Cijin
Qihou Fort
Gegrillter Tintenfisch
Lotussee
Tiger- und Drachen-Pagode
The Dome of Light

Kaohsiung war ein prima Auftakt unser insgesamt zehntägigen Taiwan-Tour, die uns in dem kommenden Tagen die Westküste hinauf immer gen Norden bis nach Taipeh führen sollte. Den Jahreswechsel begingen wir letztendlich übrigens in trauter Zweisamkeit auf einer Hafenkaimauer mit Blick auf die Skyline von Kaohsiung. Den Gin Tonic in der Hand und die Erinnerung an die Ereignisse des letzten Jahres im Kopf konnte man fast schon etwas sentimental werden. Das Jahr 2018 trat ein schweres Erbe an. 2017 zu toppen, dürfte wohl ein hartes Stück Arbeit werden.

PROST NEUJAHR
Bescheidenes Feuerwerk über Downtown

Von Kaohsiung ging es mit dem Zug weiter nach Tainan, in die älteste Stadt Taiwans. Auch diese Stadt gefiel uns auf Anhieb. Das japanisch-chinesische Erbe Taiwans zeigte sich in Tainan sehr deutlich. Planlos stöberten wir durch das Labyrinth aus kleinen Gässchen. Dabei entdeckten wir in Hinterhöfen und an Hauswänden immer wieder kleine künstlerische Niedlichkeiten.

Auf Entdeckungstour in Tainans Nebenstraßen
Schneckchen
Shennong Street

Ein echt abgefahrener Ort, der uns begeisterte, war das Anping Tree House. Für Einheimische galt das ehemalige Warenhaus lange Zeit als verwunschener Ort mit negativer Energie. Seit 2004 ist es eine Attraktion. Nach der Stilllegung des Handelskontors bemächtigte sich ein Banyanbaum des Gebäudes und begann das Gemäuer mit seinen Wurzeln und Ästen zu umschlingen. Inzwischen ist der gesamte Bau von Wurzel- und Astwerk überzogen. Ein faszinierender Anblick und der Traum eines jeden Fotografen.

Anping Tree House
Wurzelpeter
Anping Tree House
Anping Tree House

Weniger begeistert waren wir anfänglich von unserer nächsten Station auf unserem Weg gen Norden. 2013 wurde Taichung, Taiwans drittgrößte Metropole, in einer Studie von den Taiwanesen vor Taipeh überraschend zur lebenswertesten Stadt des Landes gewählt. Wieso, das erschloss sich uns zunächst nicht. Anscheinend waren wir in der falschen Gegend abgestiegen. Ein paar nette Ecken entdeckten wir dann aber doch. In der Painted Animation Lane wurden diverse Figuren aus Comic, Anime und Manga verewigt, darunter auch Klassiker wie Popeye und Super Mario. Ebenso kreativ ging es im Rainbow Village zu. Die Geschichte hinter dem bunt bemalten „Dorf“ ist eine Herz erwärmende. Beim Rainbow Village handelt es sich eigentlich um eine ehemalige Militärsiedlung, in der einst Veteranen untergebracht waren. Im Jahr 2010 begann die Stadtregierung, die Bewohner umzusiedeln und die heruntergekommene Siedlung abzureißen. Als Protest gegen die Vertreibung und den Abriss begann der damals 86-jährige Huang Yong-Fu, Kriegsveteran und Bewohner der Siedlung, die grauen Baracken mit bunten Motiven zu bemalen. Als Studenten der nahe gelegenen Ling-Tung-Universität auf den künstlerischen Protest des Regenbogen-Opas aufmerksam wurden, unterstützen sie diesen, woraufhin die Stadtregierung von Taichung letzlich beschloss, die bemalte Siedlung als Kunstpark bestehen zu lassen. Heute stehen noch etwa fünf mit kunterbunten Tieren und Phantasieformen bemalte Baracken. Ein schöner Ort mit einer schönen Geschichte, über die selbst das Erste Deutsche Fernsehen schon berichtete.

Painted Animation Lane
Finde Benji
Yeahhh!
Rainbow Village
Rainbow Village
Rainbow Grandpa – der Künstler
Herzl

Unser persönliches Taichung-Highlight fanden wir allerdings vor den Toren der Stadt. Denn bei so viel Städte-Hopping zog es uns mal wieder in die Natur. Keine zwanzig Kilometer östlich des Zentrums grenzt das Dakeng-Naherholungsgebiet direkt an die Metrople. Auf zehn Trails kann man dort eine herrliche Berglandschaft erkunden. Das besondere daran, bei den Trails handelt es sich um Holzbohlenwege aus Baumstämmen. Wir entschieden uns für Trail Nr. 4, den – wie wir lasen – anspruchsvollsten der zehn. Morgens ging es mit dem Taxi raus aus der Stadt in die Berge. Bis in die frühen Morgenstunden hatte es ordentlich geregnet und auch jetzt fiel noch der ein oder andere Tropfen vom Himmel. Je tiefer es in die Berge ging, desto schlechter wurde die Sicht. Dichte Nebelschwaden zogen über die grünen Hänge. Unser Taxifahrer wurde zunehmend nervös, fasste sich schließlich ein Herz und fragte uns, ob wir uns sicher seien, dass wir den Trail an diesem Tag laufen wollten. Es sei sehr gefährlich bei diesem Wetter. Auch wir kamen so langsam ins Grübeln. Allerdings hatten wir die hin und wieder etwas übervorsichtige Art der Asiaten zuletzt schon öfter kennen gelernt. Wir hatten unser Ziel inzwischen erreicht und waren immer noch hin und her gerissen. Ben war hoch motiviert und warf zurecht ein, dass man sich auf einem Holzplankenweg selbst bei Nebel nur schwer verlaufen könne. Nach einem letzten Abwägen, war unser Fazit klar: Einfach mal machen. Was soll schon schief gehen. Also ging es los – immer Richtung Nebelwand.

Aufbruch zur Wanderung im Dakeng District
Auf in den Nebel

Schnell stellte sich dann auch heraus, dass unserer besorgter Taxifahrer es wohl tatsächlich etwas zu gut gemeint hatte. Denn gefährlich war hier gar nichts. Zumindest solange man schön aufpasste, wohin man seinen Fuß auf die feuchten Holzstämme setzte. Ziemlich anstrengend war diese Art des Wanderns dafür umso mehr. Belohnt wurden wir dann aber mit tollen Wanderimpressionen. Der Nebel hing wie eine zähe Masse zwischen den Bäumen des Walds und verlieh der ganzen Szenerie etwas Mystisches.

Dakeng Trail Nr. 4
Trotz Bodennebel nicht abgesagt
Auf dem Holzweg
Was für eine Aussicht 😉

Noch am Nachmittag des selben Tages ging es mal wieder mit dem Zug weiter nach Taipeh. Die Hauptstadt sollte der krönende Abschluss unseres Taiwan-Trips werden – der Höhepunkt so zusagen. Einen Höhepunkt erreichte allerdings lediglich die Niederschlagsmenge in den vier Tagen unseres Taipeh-Besuchs. Es war zum verrückt werden. Mit unserer Ankunft setzte ein viertägiger Dauerregen ein. Für die Jahreszeit im Norden Taiwans wohl nichts ungewöhnliches. Für uns trotzdem hochgradig frustrierend. Den Versuch, am ersten Tag dem strömenden Regen zu trotzen und dessen ungeachtet auf Stadterkundung zu gehen, brachen wir nach der Hälfte des Tages ab. Es machte einfach keinen Spaß. Auch wenn uns das, was wir bis dahin gesehen hatten, durchaus gefallen hatte.

Eingang zur Nationalen Chiang-Kai-shek-Gedächtnishalle
Immer schön aufpassen
Huashan 1914 Culture & Creative Park
Xinyi Road mit Taipei 101
Bye bye Taipei

Frustriert ging es zurück zum Hostel, wo wir in den nächsten Tagen die meiste Zeit verbrachten und diese nutzten, um unsere Weiterreise zu planen. Taipeh, das war für uns ein echter Schuss in den Ofen. Auch wenn Biertrinken mit anderen Hostel-„Insassen“ ein gewisser Unterhaltungsfaktor nicht abzusprechen ist. ;-P So plätscherten unsere letzten Tage in Taiwan im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes so vor sich hin. Trotz des ernüchternden Abschlusses waren es insgesamt doch zehn großartige Tage in einem Land, dass uns begeistert hat. Dabei lag die Faszination vor allem in den kleinen Dingen: die unglaubliche Freundlichkeit und Hilfsbereitschaft der Menschen, auf die wir angewiesen waren, da wir nicht mal eine Speisekarte lesen konnten, die vielen Winkel und Gässchen, in denen es stets kleine Schätze zu entdecken gab, das leckere und für uns oft ungewöhnliche Essen. All das machte für uns die Faszination Taiwan aus. In zehn Tagen war es uns möglich, einen ersten Eindruck zu gewinnen. Für vieles was Taiwan noch bereithält, fehlte uns jedoch schlichtweg die Zeit. Die kulturell besonders interessante Ostküste und der Süden mit seinen weißen Stränden werden für uns eines Tages genauso Grund sein wiederzukommen wie der Wunsch Taipeh einmal bei Sonnenschein und ohne Regen zu sehen.

Hier geht’s zur vollständigen Fotogalerie.

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VIETNAM http://mandjamin.de/vietnam/ http://mandjamin.de/vietnam/#respond Fri, 20 Apr 2018 15:31:05 +0000 http://mandjamin.de/?p=11341 Anfang Dezember ging es nach Vietnam. Doch was so einfach klingt, verlangte uns zunächst einiges an Geduld ab. Die Nervenprobe begann schon, da hatten wir noch nicht einmal vietnamesischen Boden betreten. Im kambodschanischen Siem Reap wollte uns ein überambitionierter Mitarbeiter am Check-in-Schalter nicht in den Flieger lassen, da wir keinen Weiterflug von Vietnam vorweisen konnten. Die Diskussionsrunde war eröffnet und fünf Minuten vor Boarding standen wir mit unseren Rucksäcken immer noch am Schalter, als unsere Überredungskünste schließlich Wirkung zeigten. Widerwillig stellte uns der “Schalterbeamte” einen Wisch aus, auf dem wir per Unterschrift bestätigten, auf eigenes Risiko nach Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt zu fliegen, auch auf die Gefahr hin wieder nach Kambodscha zurückgeschickt zu werden. Wir schmissen die Rucksäcke aufs Band und sprinteten zum Gate. Als wir schließlich im Flieger saßen, fiel uns ein ganzer Steinbruch vom Herzen. Es ging nach Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt und dort warteten bereits zwei gute Gründe, sich gleich doppelt auf Vietnam zu freuen. Namentlich waren das Lynn und Magda, Freundinnen aus der Heimat und ebenfalls gerade auf Weltenbummelei. Nun sollten sich unsere Wege in Vietnam kreuzen.

Zunächst mussten wir aber noch am vietnamesischen Grenzbeamten vorbei. Als wir auf Nachfrage kein Ausflugticket vorweisen konnten, zeigte sich der Kollege ziemlich zerknirscht und das “offizielle Schreiben”, das wir vom Check-In in Siem Reap mitgebracht hatten, schien seine Laune auch nicht erheitern zu können. Das Ergebnis der sich anschließenden fünf minütigen Frage-und-Antwort-Runde war schließlich, dass wir zwar einreisen durften, das Land jedoch bereits nach zwei Wochen und nicht wie von uns geplant nach vier wieder verlassen sollten. Alles egal. Nach einer aufreibenden Anreise hatten wir den Stempel im Pass und waren drin. Die Verlängerung unseres Visums, die nach Aussage des Grenzbeamten unter keinen Umständen möglich wäre, sollte uns später noch beschäftigen. Nun freuten wir uns erstmal auf Lynn, Magda und ein Wiedersehensbier in unserem AirBnB-Apartment mit Blick über die Stadt.

Nächtliche Ankunft in Ho-Chi-Minh-City

Nach fast einem Jahr der Trennung gab es viel zu bereden und so blieb es nicht bei einem Bier. Nach einer kurzen Nacht hieß es nach wenigen Stunden dann zum ersten Mal: Gooooooood Morning, Vietnam. Ganz Vietnam-typisch gab es zum Frühstück erstmal eine Hühnersuppe. So gestärkt ging es in den Tag. Während Lynn und Magda sich auf die Suche nach einem fahrbaren Untersatz für ihre geplante Motorradtour machten, traten wir den Gang durch die Wirren der vietnamesischen Bürokratie an, um unser Visum um zwei Wochen zu verlängern. Details wollen wir euch an dieser Stelle ersparen. Sagen wir einfach, es braucht sehr viel Vertrauen in einen nicht gerade offiziell anmutenden Mitarbeiter irgendeiner anscheinend zuständigen Agentur, viel Geduld und 160 Dollar. Entgegen aller Befürchtungen, unsere Pässe, die wir drei Tagen zuvor einem völlig Fremden überlassen hatten, nie wieder zu sehen, hielten wir diese zu guter Letzt tatsächlich samt verlängertem Visum in den Händen. Die Wartezeit bis dahin nutzten wir gemeinsam mit Lynn und Magda zum Sightseeing und Ausgehen in Ho-Chi-Minh-City.

Zum ersten Frühstück die obligatorische Hühnersuppe
Straßenszene
Notre Dame
Parteyyy
Straßenimpression
🙂
Endlich das Visum in der Tasche

Mit dem richtigen Visum im Pass und vier Woche auf der Uhr konnte das Abenteuer Vietnam endlich starten. Das bedeutete zunächst auch, dass sich die Wege von den Biker-Mäusen Lynn und Magda und uns trennten. Während die beiden mit ihren neuen Motorrädern die Küstenroute abfahren wollten ging es für uns in die Hochebene nach Da Lat. Dort angekommen erlebten wir zunächst einen echten Temperaturschock. Waren in Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt noch schwül-warme dreizig Grad angesagt, empfing uns Da Lat, eine Flugstunde von Ho-Chi-Minh entfernt, mit einstelligen Temperaturen. Schlagartig fühlte sich die ganze Weihnachtsdekoration gar nicht mehr so fehl am Platz an. Da Lat sollte die Ausgangsstation unserer Easy Rider-Motorradtour durch das vietnamesische Hinterland sein, die wir uns für die nächsten Tage vorgenommen hatten. Ganz beiläufig lernten wir während unserer Stadterkundung am ersten Tag Binh kennen. Binh sprach uns an und erzählte uns von den Touren, die er gemeinsam mit seinem Partner Hui anbot. Nachdem Binh uns sympathisch war und uns die Inhalte der Bikertour zusagten, entschieden wir uns am Fleck, fünf Tage mit Binh und Hui loszumachen.

Auf Entdeckungstour in Dalat
Auf dem Markt
Kunterbunt
Straßenhändler
Seilbahn zum Thien Vien Truc Lam Meditationszentrum
Im Thien Vien Truc Lam Meditationszentrum

Los ging es dann auch direkt am nächsten Tag. Wir klemmten uns hinter Binh und Hui auf den Bock und es ging durch kleine Dörfer, über Bergpässe und vorbei an Reisfeldern immer tiefer hinein ins Hinterland. Dort ist ein Tourist für die Einheimischen längst kein so vertrauter Anblick wie in den großen Städten. Immer wieder winkten uns Kinder feixend zu, Jugendliche machten Fotos von uns oder umarmten uns. An einem Wasserfall in einem National Park fanden wir sogar eine ganze Schar neuer Freunde, welche uns spontan zu Grillhähnchen und Bier einluden. Am zweiten Tag unserer Tour war Mandys Geburtstags und unsere Guides luden uns zum Abendessen ein. Auch sonst gab es immer traditionelle Küche und traditionelle Essgewohnheiten.

Unsere Easy Rider Binh und Hui
Acht Rinder und ein Bock
Binh und Mandy
Grillhähnchen und Bier mit neuen Freunden
Vietnamesischer Rasthof
Bikerbraut
Geringfügige Größenunterschiede
Ultimative Freiheit
Prost auf Mandys Geburtstag

Die Eindrücke in den fünf Tagen waren unglaublich vielfältig. Wir erhielten einen Einblick, wie die vietnamesische Landbevölkerung lebt und arbeitet. Immer wieder stoppten wir an kleinen Manufakturen, die manchmal nicht viel mehr waren als eine einfache Garage. Was darin, meist in Handarbeit, gefertigt wurde, brachte uns oft zum Staunen. Ob Tofu, Reisbandnudeln oder Räucherstäbchen… all das wird dort per Hand hergestellt. Absolut faszinierend und lehrreich.

Blick auf die Kaffeeplantage
Elefantenwasserfälle
Rice. Rice. Baby
Reisnudelnmanufaktur
In der Tofugarage
Holzschnitzkunst
Veteranentreffen
Wir durften mit anpacken
Viehhirte

Als wir am Nachmittag des fünften Tages Quy Nhon und damit unser finales Ziel erreichten, waren wir glücklich, wegen der vielen gesammelten Impressionen und darüber, endlich die müden Hintern von den Zweirädern hieven zu können. Nach fünf Tagen auf Tour wollten wir es am Strand in Quy Nhon etwas ruhiger angehen lassen. Dafür hatten wir uns in ein mini Fischerdorf zehn Kilometer außerhalb der Stadt in einen Bungalow am Berghang und mit Meerblick eingemietet. Die Aussicht vom Bett war atemberaubend. Allerdings sorgten schlechtes Wetter und hohe Wellen dafür, dass wir in diesem deutlich mehr Zeit verbrachten als am Strand. Aber egal. Entspannt war es trotzdem. Und naja… was soll man sagen? Geht schlechter. Guckt euch diesen Ausblick an. 🙂

Was für eine Aussicht
Endlich wieder am Meer
Schlechte (Wetter-)Aussicht

Mit dem Zug ging es weiter nach Hoi An. Der an einem Seitenarm des Thu-Bon-Fluss gelegene historische Stadtkern von Hoi An zählt zum wohl schönsten, was Vietnam zu bieten hat. Vor allem wenn die Sonne untergeht und es dunkelt wird, strömen busseweise Schaulustige in die Stadt, deren Straßen und Gassen dann von zigtausend bunten Lampions erhellt werden. Vom Gedränge mal abgesehen, ein wunderschönes Erlebnis, dass noch um so schöner war, da wir Lynn und Magda in Hoi An wieder trafen. Unsere Reisegruppe war nun also wieder zu viert und das war sehr passend, denn es stand schon wieder der nächste Geburtstag ins Haus. Diesmal war Benji an der Reihe. Rein gefeiert wurde griechisch-irisch. Nach einer Gyros-Tzatziki-Fressorgie gab es noch Live-Musik im Irish Pub.

Willkommen in Hoi An
Lampions überall
Cheeeeeese
Malerischer Hinterhof
Quan-Cong-Tempel
Gondoliere
Am Ufer des Thu-Bon-Flusses
Hoi An bei Nacht
Eine herrliche Kulisse

Von Hoi An ging es am nächsten Tag per Zug über den so genannten Wolkenpass knapp 100 Kilometer nördlich nach Hue, in die letzte Königstadt des Landes. Die Fahrt über den Pass gilt als die landschaftlich reizvollste in Vietnam. Tatsächlich konnten wir gar nicht mehr aufhören, den Kopf aus dem Fenster in den Fahrtwind zu halten und die zum Meer grün abfallenden Hänge zu bewundern. Nachdem wir bei unserem eintägigen Gastspiel in Hue bei Dauerregen die Königstadt inklusive der darin gelegenen Purpurnen Verbotenen Stadt besichtigt hatten, ging es am nächsten Tag per Flieger ab in die vietnamesische Hauptstadt, ab nach Hanoi.

Mit dem Zug über den Wolkenpass
Das gehört in jeden Street Style Blog
Mittagstor – der Haupteingang zur Königsstadt
Power Rangers
Giebelverzierung
Purpurne Verbotene Stadt
Königsstadt

Mit mehr als 7,5 Millionen Einwohnern ist Hanoi hinter Ho-Chi-Minh-City Vietnams zweitgrößte Stadt. In Hanoi pulsiert das Leben. Was man New York nachsagt, ist auch hier Wirklichkeit. Die Stadt scheint nie zu schlafen. Ob in den Garküchen, vor denen sich die Einheimischen auf kleinen Plastikhockern niederlassen oder in der bei Touristen beliebten Beer Street. Tag und Nacht wuseln überall Menschen herum. Der unablässige Verkehr, der selbst noch die kleinsten Nebenstraßen verstopft, kommt auch in der Nacht kaum zum Erliegen. Im quirligen Old Town, dem historischen Herzen Hanois, findet dieses herrliche Chaos seinen Höhepunkt. Wir waren begeistert. Um welche Ecke man auch bog, es gab stets etwas zu entdecken. Vor allem die zahlreichen fliegenden Händler, die von Ananas über Staubwedel bis hin zu lebenden Goldfischen in Plastiktüten alles mögliche anboten, hatten es uns angetan. Wir ließen uns durch das Getümmel treiben und gewannen unglaublich viele Eindrücke. Man kann mit Fug und Recht behaupten, dass sich das Leben in Vietnam auf der Straße abspielt. Für eine Gegend, in die wir bei unserer Stadterkundung gelangten, ist das nicht ganz zutreffend. Vielmehr spielt sich das Leben hier auf der Schiene ab. In einem Viertel mitten im Zentrum Hanois verlaufen Gleise durch eine Seitengasse, die gerade genug Platz für die mehrmals täglich hier durchfahrenden Züge bietet. An einigen Stellen liegt zwischen Schienentrasse und Haustür nur ein knapper Meter. Ist gerade kein Zug in Sicht gehen die Anwohner an und auf den Gleisen ihrem Tagewerk nach. Absolut verrückt, wie wir fanden, und da grad kein Zug in der Nähe war, hatten wir genügend Zeit für ein ausgiebiges Fotoshooting an diesem außergewöhnlichen Wohnort.

Die Band
Old Town
Obstladen in Old Town
Was ist das denn?
Kein Zug in Sicht
Leben entlang der Eisenbahn
Akrobatisch
Ho-Chi-Minh-Mausoleum

Hanoi gefiel uns von Anfang an sehr gut, aber für die Feiertage schwebte uns dann doch etwas ruhigeres vor. Nach drei Tagen wollten wir eine Hanoi-Pause einlegen und raus aus der Stadt. Für Lynn und Magda ging es für die Feiertage ohnehin zurück nach Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt. Für uns stellte sich also die Frage, wo in Vietnam wir Weihnachten verbringen wollten. Schnell war klar, dass es ein Weihnachtsfest am Meer werden sollte. Unsere Wahl fiel schließlich auf Cat Ba, eine 150 Kilometer südöstlich von Hanoi gelegene Insel neben der berühmten Ha-Long-Bucht. Am 23. Dezember ging es mit Bus und Fähre vier Stunden nach Cat Ba. Dort angekommen, war sofort klar, wir hatten alles richtig gemacht. Allein unsere Unterkunft, in exponierter Lage auf einer Felszunge thronend und zu drei Seiten vom Wasser umgeben, war die Anreise wert. Ein wunderschöner Ort, an dem einem direkt ganz festlich ums Herz wurde.

Blick auf Cat Ba
Der Blick von unserer Terrasse

Beim Einchecken drückte man uns dann auch direkt einen Flyer für die große Weihnachtsgala in die Hand, die am nächsten Abend im Hotel stattfand. Neben einem Dinner versprach das Abendprogramm noch Finessen wie eine Feuershow und Bauchtanz. Typisch weihnachtlich eben. 😉 Bevor wir uns am Abend der Skurrilität einer vietnamesischen Weihnachtsfeier aussetzen sollten, beschenkten wir uns tagsüber zunächst selbst mit einer Schiffstour durch die Han-La- und die Ha-Long-Bucht. Mit von der Partie war Marcel aus Dresden, den wir Tags zuvor auf der Fähre kennengelernt hatten und der zufällig auch in unserem Hotel abgestiegen war. Gemeinsam mit unserem Captain schipperten wir drei einen ganzen Tag lang gemächlich durch die vom Meer überflutete Karstlandschaft, vorüber an schwimmenden Dörfern und ungewöhnlichen Felsformationen. Zwischendurch hatten wir auch die Gelegenheit, die Ha-Long-Bucht mit dem Kajak zu erkunden. Während wir durch Felsbögen zu versteckten Lagunen paddelten, zauberte unser Captains nur mit einem Wok und einem Gasbrenner bewaffnet ein unglaubliches Mittagessen. Abermals waren wir beeindruckt, mit welch einfachen Mitteln die Menschen hier immer wieder ein Festmahl zaubern. Nachdem Mandy auf Monkey Island dann noch die Haarziehattacke eines nervösen Makakenäffchens überstanden hatte, das seine Cola-Dose sehr rabiat verteidigte, war es Zeit den Heimweg anzutreten. Schließlich wartete am Abend noch die große Weihnachtsgala auf uns.

Schwimmendes Dorf
Wachhund
In der Ha Long Bucht
Dann ging es ins Kajak
Ha Long Bucht
Blick auf Monkey Island

Kurz nach 18 Uhr wurden wir von schlecht abgestimmter, dafür aber um so lauter scheppernder Musik aus unserem Bungalow gelockt. Beim Blick von der Terrasse stellten wir fest, dass die Weihnachtsfete bereits in vollem Gange waren. Zwar war der offizielle Start für 19:30 angesetzt. Eine Gruppe ungeduldiger russischer Gäste hatte das Buffet jedoch vorzeitig gestürmt und die Feierlichkeiten damit eigenmächtig eröffnet. Es lebe die Anarchie. 😉 Also warfen auch wir uns in Schale und schlossen uns den Festivitäten an. Dass die Dinge in Vietnam etwas anders laufen, war inzwischen ja keine Neuigkeit mehr für uns. Gleiches galt auch für die Weihnachtsgala, der wir in den folgenden Stunden beiwohnten. Durch Programm führte ein gestriegelter Unterhaltungskünstler mit etwas zu kleinem Anzug – selbstverständlich auf vietnamesisch. Bei einem Großteil der Show konnten wir also lediglich erahnen, was da grade vor sich ging. Wieso sich der Kollege an einer Stelle seines Programms allerdings in einen viertelstündigen Sprechgesang vertiefte, bei dem er roboterartig immer wieder die gleichen Sätze aufsagte, wollte sich uns partout nicht erschließen. Nachvollziehbarer war da schon der Auftritt des vietnamesischen Popsternchen in spe, dessen Gesang sich durch unzureichende Tontechnik in teilweise unerträgliche Höhen aufschwang. Tja, wer hätte gedacht, dass die anfangs von uns so belächelte Feuer- und Bauchtanzshow zum kulturellen Highlight dieser Weihnachtsfeier werden würde. Aber hier wurde fürs Auge wirklich etwas geboten. Als das Buffet leer war und das Abendprogramm sein Ende fand, waren die überwiegend einheimischen Gäste so schnell weg, wie sie gekommen waren. Die übersteuerte, viel zu laute Musik, die den ganzen Abend aus den Lautsprechern geknarzt hatte, verstummte und es kehrte endlich etwas Ruhe ein. Wir ließen den Heiligabend mit einer Flasche Wein auf unserer Terrasse ausklingen und beeierten uns noch eine ganze Weile über die diversen Kuriositäten dieser schrägen Weihnachtsfeier, die, wenn auch maximal weit von festlich-besinnlich entfernt, in jedem Fall denkwürdig und etwas ganz besonderes war.

Es ist angerichtet. 
Bauchtanz als Weihnachtsprogramm

Am ersten Weihnachtsfeiertag erkundeten wir die Insel per Motorroller. Die wunderschöne Landschaft und die dazwischen liegenden Dörfer von Cat Ba zeigten sich uns noch sehr ursprünglich und erfreulich wenig touristisch erschlossen. Cat Ba kann man aktuell noch als Geheimtipp bezeichnen, was sich in den kommenden Jahren jedoch sicherlich ändern wird. Fernab von den Touristenscharen von Hoi An und dem urbanen Chaos von Hanoi fühlten wir uns unglaublich wohl und so fiel es uns schwer, am nächsten Tag den Rucksack zu packen und weiter zu ziehen.

Huuuiiiiiiii
Wunderschöne Landschaft
Auf der Küstenstraße
Traumhafte Aussichten
Merry Christmas from Vietnam
Eine Tasse Tee und beste Sicht am letzten Abend auf Cat Ba

Bevor es zurück nach Hanoi ging, machten wir noch einen eintägigen Abstecher in die 100 Kilometer südlich von Hanoi gelegene Ninh-Binh-Provinz. Genauer gesagt ging es nach Tam Coc. Die verträumte Landschaft von Tam Coc wird aufgrund der vielen, aus den Reisfeldern ragenden Karstkegel auch Trockene Ha-Long-Bucht gennant. Dabei sorgt der Ngo-Dong-Fluss ganzjährig dafür, dass die Landschaft hier nicht ganz so trocken wirkt wie der Name es zunächst suggeriert. Schließlich sorgt auch noch das Wetter dafür, dass der Name Trockene Ha-Long-Bucht in unserem Fall endgültig ad absurdum geführt wurde. Wir ließen uns von grauen Wolken und Regen jedoch nicht aufhalten und erkundeten Tam Coc zu Wasser und an Land.

Unterwegs auf dem Ngo-Dong-Fluss
Hier ist gute Beinarbeit gefragt
Die Trockene Ha-Long-Bucht
Der Eingang zur Bich-Dong-Pagode
Ausblick von Hang Mua auf Tam Coc
Ausblick von Hang Mua

Dann ging es zurück nach Hanoi. Es war der 27. Dezember und ebenso wie das Jahr neigte sich unsere Zeit in Vietnam allmählich dem Ende entgegen. Uns blieben noch drei Tage in unserer vietnamesischen Lieblingsstadt. Ohne die ganz großen Pläne zu machen, genossen wir noch einmal den chaotischen Charme von Old Town. Vom Balkon eines Kaffees beobachteten wir stundenlang das Treiben auf der Kreuzung unter uns, im Pho 10 aßen die beste Hühnersuppe der Stadt, wir nutzten die Gelegenheit, um uns auf den letzten Pfiff noch einige Maßanzüge schneidern zu lassen und wir kehrten noch mal zurück auf die Schienen.

Beim Schneider
Sitzt. Passt. Ich krieg keine Luft.
Rechts vor links
Händlerinnen
Exponierter Arbeitsplatz
Die beste Hühnersuppe der Stadt

Einmal dabei zu sein, wenn der Zug sich durch die engen Gassen schiebt, das wollten wir uns nicht entgehen lassen. Auf der Lehne einer neben den Gleisen aufgestellten Bank fanden wir eine Art Fahrplan und wir hatten Glück. Der nächste Zug sollte planmäßig in einer Viertelstunde fahren. Also suchten wir uns einen guten und vor allem sicheren Platz und warteten gespannt. Die Aufregung wuchs mit jeder Minute des Wartens. Nach gut zwanzig Minuten vernahmen wir das Signalhorn eines Zuges und dann kam das Ungetüm auch schon um die Kurve und auf uns zu. Wir machten uns dünn und die Wagons schossen mit lautem Getöse an uns vorbei. Nach etwa dreißig Sekunden sahen wir schon nur noch die Rücklichter des Zuges und der Spuk war vorbei. Wahnsinn.

Fahrplan
Warten auf den nächsten Zug
In Deckung
Da kommt was auf Sie zu
Das Ungetüm
Bauch einziehen

Das war bestes Entertainment. Wie unser Trip durch Vietnam überhaupt. Nach erheblichen Startschwierigkeiten brauchten wir zunächst etwas um mit dem Land und der Mentalität seiner Menschen warm zu werden. Als dies dann allerdings geschehen war, war es pure Freude sowie Lust am Entdecken und Staunen… wie schon so oft in den vergangenen Monaten dieses Jahres, dessen Ende nun unmittelbar bevorstand.

Wir hörten die Uhr allmählich immer lauter ticken. Lange war es nicht mehr bis zu unserer bevorstehenden Rückkehr nach Berlin. Und obwohl eine leichte Vorfreude auf zu Hause langsam spürbar wurde, wollten wir bis zu unserer Heimkehr natürlich noch eine maximal geile Zeit erleben. Also hieß es abermals: TRAVEL ON.

Hier geht’s zur vollständigen Fotogalerie.

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KAMBODSCHA http://mandjamin.de/kambodscha/ http://mandjamin.de/kambodscha/#respond Tue, 09 Jan 2018 07:11:05 +0000 http://mandjamin.de/?p=9958 Nachdem Grenzübertritt von Thailand nach Kambodscha stiegen wir, anstatt in den nächsten Bus, in ein privates Taxi, welches uns eine wesentlich schnellere Fahrt ohne Stopps versprach. Wir hatten Platz, es gab eine Klimaanlage, Ben und ich konnten so viel Luxus (für Backpacker-Verhältnisse) kaum fassen und freuten uns auf dem schnellstem Weg an den Strand nach Sihanoukville zu kommen. 

Nach ungelogen gerade einmal 10 Minuten Fahrt bog der Fahrer jedoch in eine Werkstatt ein, bat uns auszusteigen und murmelte ein entschuldigendes „5 minutes“ … Wir witzelten noch „Ja, ja keine Stopps, schon klar…aber okay es sind ja nur 5 Minuten.“ Pustekuchen! Nach einer halben Stunde war der ganze Auspuff abgebaut und der Mechaniker fuhr auf seinem Roller davon. Wir fragten nochmal vorsichtig nach was jetzt Sache sei und waren drauf und dran unsere Sachen zu schnappen und einfach in ein anderes Taxi zu steigen. Das stellte sich aber schnell als unmöglich heraus, da unser Taxi auf der Hebebühne stand und unsere Rucksäcke in zwei Meter Höhe im Kofferraum lagen. Nach weiteren zehn Minuten kam der Mechaniker auf seinem Roller zurück, zückte ein offensichtlich wichtiges Ersatzteil für die Fahrtüchtigkeit des Wagens aus seiner Hosentasche und nach einer knapp einstündigen, unfreiwilligen Pause konnte es endlich weiter- besser gesagt losgehen. 

Grenzübertritt Thailand – Kambodscha
Warten, warten, warten

Die Laune hat uns diese kleine witzige Story aber keineswegs verhagelt, denn schließlich hieß es jetzt party on am kambodschanischen Ballermann in Sihanoukville! Bens Freund Gregor war „rein zufällig“ zur selben Zeit mit seiner Freundin Grit zu gegen und „rein zufällig“ hatte dieser auch noch Geburtstag. Gemeinsam mit Franzi bezog unsere nun fünfköpfige Reisegruppe ihre Bungalows direkt am Strand und das erste Bierchen im Meer, natürlich untermalt von einem Bilderbuch Sonnenuntergang, ließ auch nicht lang auf sich warten. 

Reunion Drink